Bridges over troubled waters by Margaret Jakovac

In mid-April, Mostar, the capital of Herzegovina, made world- television screens with the opening of a gently-swinging pedestrian bridge made of neatly-knotted wire. A feat of Spanish engineering and know-how, was the verbal banner. To Mostar locals, the bridge was a welcome gift from the Spanish troops of the UN peace-keeping force. And it is a vital link considering that still out of action is the centuries-old 'Stari Most' (old bridge), built in 1566. Mostar shares with Medjugorje 1,374 troops of the Spanish battalion in Sector south-west of the UN forces in Bosnia Herzegovina. Its troop numbers ranks it third highest protected in the eight-part sector. This sector has the most troops of any sector in Bosnia Herzegovina and Croatia. So what's life like on the streets there? Cafe Studio, on King Tomislav Street, is the coolest coffee house in Mostar right now. It's black and white decor are nicely set off with abstract works of art. "You stare at the pictures and get a bit dizzy," says one regular, who enjoys being mesmerised by some of the three-dimensional pictures featured. Casual dress is the norm, but tables of "suits" sit next to tables of "jeans" - no problem. Around 10 or 11 on most nights the place is packed with folks aged from 18 to 50 and a long line waiting to get in. No sign of war nearby. Sounds like a great business opportunity, hey? "It was open pretty much throughout the heavy shelling in this war," says Mate Boras, Head of the Foreign Press Bureau in Mostar. "It was hit a few times, so it was closed intermittently, but always opened up quickly to keep serving clients." Pre-war, 126,000 people lived in the town of Mostar. Mostar province, covers 6,135 square kilometres of about 12 per cent of Bosnia Herzegovina. Before the war 54 per cent of residents were Croatian (193,016), 11.1% Serbian (39,695), 28.7% Muslim (102,035) with others making up the rest. More than 355,623 people lived in the region. Today about 60,000 people live in Mostar the city. The 'kafic' society is alive and thriving - just like most European cities. Despite the claim that the gun and wallet rule in Mostar, basic infrastructure is working again. There's a buzz of activity to rebuild the town, an energy that is palpable. But after three long years of war, the city of Mostar shows its scars on almost every building. Many of the buildings and houses have an historical, architectural and cultural significance to contribute to the make-up of the city, says Mr Boras. "Herzegovina has a long and fascinating history, having seen many different armies pass through leaving what can still be seen today in their cultural and architectural influence. From the Turkish conquest to the Austro-Hungarian empire, they did not call their region the military frontier for nothing. But throughout its sometimes very brutal past some things have remained a constant," says Mr Boras. The thick, strong black coffee for one? "Croats, who have been here for centuries, have witnessed the destruction and reconstruction of their city. Sometimes they had no influence on the projects which transformed Mostar." With the arrival of the European Union Administration of Mostar (EUAM), the citizens can now have a big say in how their homes and buildings are reconstructed and renovated. And it's not just for 'kafic' walls to hear. The community's influence in rebuilding Mostar has been propped by the generosity of the European Union and many European humanitarian organisations such as UNESCO, the Swiss Disaster Relief and others. Mr Boras says, "reconstructing schools and basic infrastructure such as electricity and water supply are top priority for the EAM. Today the city enjoys a constant supply of electricity and water in homes, offices and schools. EAM's help has kicked off the city's difficult journey to normalising everyday life." A company began work late last month on developing public transport in Mostar. And the Zagreb firm, Vijaduki, will oversee a project to rebuild the Carinski Most which begins this month. Deals made over coffee perhaps? MOSTAR FLASH BACK2 September 20, 1991 Vecernji List All of Herzegovina is under general alert as Yugoslav Army battalions from Bileca and Trebinje head towards Capljina, a town where the majority of the population is Croatian. As well, YA battalions from Nevesinje transferred to Mostar. Thirty-five buses and 100 armoured vehicles, trucks and cars full of heavily-armed YA soldiers and civilians passed through the town of Stolac shooting from machine guns and other weapons. The vehicles had Montenegrin registration plates. No civilian authorities in the towns had been notified about the arrival of the 8,000 YA reservists from Montenegro. They were positioned in the Dubrovnik area and promptly began their attack on the ancient city by first destroying the village of Ravno. Flash backs 1992 Source: Ethnic Cleansing of Croats in Bosnia and Herzegovina 1991-93 Croatian Community of Herzeg-Bosnia, 1993 During attacks on Mostar in the first half of 1992, Serb artillery targeted buildings, causing large-scale civilian casualties and deaths. Having occupied part of Mostar on the left bank of the Neretva River, Serbian formations proceeded to commit numerous war crimes, killing a large number of civilians. This was confirmed by the uncovering of two mass graves found in the area of Bijelo Polje (verified and examined by international organisations). In one massacre alone, 17 people died. In the battles of Mostar, Muslim soldiers forcibly extracted blood from Croatian prisoners. The most horrific atrocity occurred on 15 July, 1993, when 17 civilians were burned alive at the factory Soko. Page 1 Intro This page constructed by Dubravko Kakarigi, Tallahassee, Florida, October 1995.