This is Iasi Calling

8 October 1995: Lawrence of Moldavia

by Scott Pusich

The "Alexandru Ion Cuza" University of Iasi was founded in 1866 (one year after KU for you Jayhawks!) and was Romania's first modern university. It is named after the prince who united Wallachia and Moldavia into the state of Romania in 1859. In fact, Iasi was Romania's first capital (from 1859-1862), and Bucharest outpaced Iasi as the center of Romanian political life only after Cuza was deposed by the boyars in 1866. Iasi therefore has a certain prestige as a center both of Romanian nationalism and Romanian culture, as reflected in education and literature. But it is a 19th century city--the 20th century has belonged to Bucharest.

The university is situated on Copou, one of the most prominent of Iasi's several hills. The old town center, the business district, and the industrial area are all down below, on the terrace of the Bahlui river. Those of you at KU may draw comparisons with Mt.(!) Oread and Lawrence. Copou is not as steep, but the nicest residential area is there. Also, there are parks, a botanical garden, and the city stadium. Tall trees line Copou Boulevard, creating a passage of green up and down the street (at least before the leaves fall). In the downtown area, the visual passage is mostly stone, brick, and concrete--most buildings along the major streets are four or five stories high.

The weather is also somewhat similar to Lawrence, although it is generally cooler, more like Omaha, NE or Des Moines, IA. Evening temps are already dipping into the 30s (F), with some days in the low 50s. But the weather is very changeable in the fall. There have thankfully been some warm and sunny days since I arrived, but it won't be long before the leaves fall and the wind becomes ice cold.

Cars are not rare in Iasi, but many people (especially the students) walk or use the buses and trams, which are reliable and cheap-- 200 lei, or about 10 cents one way. They are also packed to bursting during the morning and evening rush hours. Claustrophobes need not apply for this experience.

On 1 October I attended my first Romanian football (soccer) match. The day was sunny and cool, perfect 'tailgating' weather, except Romanians in Iasi don't tailgate. The atmosphere inside the stadium was similar to a college football game, except for the riot police. In one section were older fans and opposite them were the rowdy and flag-waving young fans, many of them students. Iasi's team is called "Politehnica" after the local Polytechnic University, which is near the industrial area.

This is Iasi's first year back in the first league after an absence of several years, so the fans are eager for quality matches. They got one Sunday, as "Poli" came from down 0-1 to to beat "Petrolul" Ploiesti 2-1. However, "Poli" was promptly pounded in its next match by "Universitatea" Craiova 0-3. Right now "Poli" is 4-0-5 (meaning no draws yet!).

On the 11th Romania is playing France in Bucharest in the run-up to the European championships in England next June. I expect the whole country will shut down Wednesday evening the 11th to watch.

After what seems like an eternity I have found an apartment. Expect my next report to be heavily domestic in nature (How much for that salami in the window, Sir?).